Dragon room is 80 degrees ambient with 44% humidity. All hot spots range from 90 to 105 degrees based on time of day here in S. FL.
Base salad: chopped organic collard greens, organic carrot shavings with peeler, organic summer squash shavings with peeler, kale (2 x per week in the base salad), you can top base salad with Nature Zone dragon bites (some of mine eat it some dont) or RepCal bearded dragon food (some of mine eat it and some dont) I will offer blueberries and raspberries in season 2x week.
why organic: several years ago I had two sick dragons they were in the 4yr old range..we didn't find a whole lot on the fecal just normal things we racked our brains with this ..we were literally stumped. After months of supportive care these two dragons died. When the vet the did the necropsy she found tumors within the dragons, these tumors were cancer and responsible for the death of the dragons. Although we can not pinpoint how they got this, it is logical to assume the same way we get cancer....pesticides and fertilizer from our food. I had been buying my greens at Walmart and not in the organic section..the vet really counseled me on how pesticides and fertilizers work, what they are made of, and the damage they can do.
2-4 month age group:
9:30am remove uneaten salad and feed 1/4 - 1/2" crickets or Dubia roaches (www.buydubia.com) based on size of hatchlings (width of jaw on dragon should be equal to body length of cricket. Dust these crickets with calcium supplement (Terramin) (we have not been supplementing with D3 lately because the UVB bulbs are doing such a great job and the babies go outside during the day some too). Feed as much of these as he will eat in a sitting. If you do not rotate your dragon outside then a calcium with D3 is recommended.
Put dragon in separate feeding tub to feed these live feeders. You can also offer baby 1/2" super worms/hornworms at this time for variety.
4:30 pm crickets/roaches as much as he will eat in his feeding tub in a sitting
6:00pm clean cage
Do not let feeders run around the cage with dragon in it...the dragon will become stressed and he will go off feed, the feeders will bury themselves in substrate (roaches) and you will not know and continue to put them in the cage. Dragon will lose his mind, be terrorized by the feeders and it will literally ruin the dragon. Please take care and feed him in a separate feeding bin.
This age group..especially hypos will drink more water than any other age group. I hand water them witha syringe every 2nd day. You can soak them in a sink with lukewarm water filled to belly..do not leave unattended.
These guys are kept on baby racks with solid color tubs under a 10.0 ReptiSun UVB bulb
Superworms fed properly are a good staple. I have been feeding them more than 20 yrs without one instance. Do take care to feed the proper size to the age and size of the dragon..that should be a given.
4-6 month age group:
9:30am remove uneaten salad and put dragon in a separate feeding tub with medium sized crickets or Dubia roaches about 1/2" - 3/4" dust with calcium every 2nd day. Offer half grown hornworms too. You can also offer 3/4 grown super worms as much as he wants to eat in a sitting in your separate feeding tub.
4:30pm crickets or roaches fed the same as above
6:00pm clean cage
This age group is put into the soak sink with luke warm water to the bottom of their bellies every 3rd day. Do not leave unattended, wait until all drink and then remove. If they poo in the water do not let them drink..remove dragon and sanitize the sink and then begin another soak.
These guys are kept in melamine cages with ReptiSun 10.0 UVB bulbs
Our lights are on from 6:30am to 6:30pm. Hatchlings are housed in open bins in a well ventilated room with a dehumidifier and dedicated A/C...humidity stays at 44% Our hatchlings are kept on newspaper and these bins are wiped out at least every 2 days with a Clorox/water mixture and toweled dry, after several weeks they are moved to sifted play sand..I have NEVER had one impaction caused by sand in my 25 years of keeping dragons...I have had many thousands of dragons.....don't offer prey too little for dragon to latch and force him to grab a mouthful of sand. Our dragons tend to grow better and thrive better on play sand...not sure why, more likely the sand gets warm promoting digestion and feed response, the dragons here are constant feeders throughout their day. I have tried bran, alfalfa pellets, corn cob pellets, etc. and all of it is dusty, when wet breeds mold, and not conducive to growing these dragons right. Either paper or play sand can be used. The play sand has to be changed at least every 4 weeks. The dragon room has an ambient temperature of 80 degrees by 12pm in the summer here in South Florida so we use a 40W bulb on the hot spot making the spot around 90-95 degrees, The overall humidity in the building is kept at 44% by a humidifier, which is necessary in this part of the country. We have best luck with the ReptiSun bulbs 10.0 for the hatchlings and they are placed 13" from the top of the basking stick here. Adults have Mecury Vapor and Sodium lamps and live in 8ft long communes for girls and 4ft singles for adult males. We also have rotational days of natural sunlight, please understand this is why the dragons are big, plump, and look so vibrant here. We do not use glass cages as they are too hard for me to clean and the dragons look ugly in a glass cage (you might try covering your glass cage with newspaper to reduce stimuli as these dragons have been in baby bins or melamine tanks here and have not seen out)...they do far better in melamine, ABS, Vision, or wood.
We do not routine de-worm the dragons here. Fenbendazole even in small doses causes liver damage in a bearded dragon if used too often. Years ago I de-wormed everything 3 months old and older routinely for a while and this shortened the life of the dragons. I had created a problem that did not exist trying to treat them as we do our horses and mammal pets and to see if this would be a benefit to these reptiles as it is to our mammal pets. We had no data on this at the time and as a pioneer breeder we supply the information to the colleges of veterinary medicine (publishing purposes) and public on these trial and errors. It was far worse to routine de-worm a dragon than to treat an infection that can pop up. Now, we do not de-worm or routinely administer anything other than vitamins and minerals to any dragon unless we spot questionable behavior and then a fecal or blood work is performed by my licensed reptile vet to identify and properly treat a problem found. The absolute best thing to prevent infection of a healthy dragon ...of any kind really is.... wash those greens! try to get dragon off crickets and onto a roach/worm feeder, NO crowding, lots of ventilation, correct temps, proper feed, and LOW stress environment.
When your dragon arrives it could be dark in color (not likely, but sometimes the polars, purples, and snows like to darken themselves) and not look like the picture for a few hours, this is because the dragon will darken himself to absorb heat when they are cold. Put the baby under the hot spot and allow him to come to cage temp. If your housing is not like described above, or you have a glass cage (dragons do not look pretty here in glass cages and are darker in them...we don't use glass cages) you may want to make some changes to your enclosure so that it is somewhat similar for a while until the dragon adjusts. We do not put hides of any kind in the cages, this promotes squirrely behavior here and the dragon sometimes wants to stay in this thing forever. We have rubber sticks that can be bought at any reptile store..they are able to be scrubbed with soap and water and you can adjust the height by bending them.
Health Guarantee: If you have followed this care sheet and your dragon is ill within 6 weeks of delivery and this is rare, but I understand things can happen..... I will refund the purchase price of the animal and animal must be returned to me at my expense for medical treatment.
If you have purchased a dragon and all of a sudden notify me 2 months, 4 months, 8 months, 2yrs, 5yrs, 10yrs or more later that dragon is sick or died and I have never heard from you by your veterinarian, your spouse, your mom, your dad, your teacher, by phone, by text, by carrier pigeon, or marching band that animal was having trouble and you want your money back I will understand you have not taken care of this animal, or it died of old age...and no refund. My phone number can be found by google (Tammy Aldrich or Draggintails) on the web, my website, or go to Kingsnake or Fauna and ask on a thread..it gets back to me in less than a few hours..my phone number has not changed in many years. If you call me or text me my response time is pretty quick usually in just minutes.